Sunday, June 3, 2012

What Would Daisy Do?

For a couple months now, I have been dealing with some sort of complex that keeps me from climbing at my full potential.  I insist on top roping everything, being the follower on complicated-to-clean routes, and somehow my initial fear of falling has come back in full force.  How did I get to this point again?!  I haven't taken any scary falls and I haven't seen any crazy accidents, so how did I get here?

After working hard on two projects last winter, Latest Rage and Watt's Tots, I realized that I did not like projecting.  I wanted to climb routes that I could send quick, so obviously I didn't try anything where I would have the potential to fall.  Of course I would develop a complex and poor Grant has to deal with me being super nervous before a hard route or always hearing me talk about wanting to climb harder.

Full Overboard 11d.  Photo by Neighbor and Brofriend Ryan Palo
Saturdays and a couple night sessions here and there are Grant and my days to climb together.  Grant has been such a supportive climbing partner for the last year and wants me to succeed probably as much as I want him to.  He puts me in my place when I get scared and makes me feel comfortable to know that he will try to protect me as much as he can.  He is the first person I tell about a send and usually has flowers waiting for me when I get home to show how proud of me he really is.  I am truly grateful to have met such a caring man.

Grant and I, we just recently celebrated our ONE year! 
But that being said, I recently found a new crew of partners who climb with me almost every Tuesday, as some in the park have deemed as "Girls' day".  Andi has Justin, Cristina has Drew, and I, of course, have Grant, but Tuesday is the day where we can finally sack up and figure out how to put up our own ropes.

Photos of us and our significant others.  Photos are from Facebook!
It's been so inspiring climbing with these two women.  We all have our own strengths, movement, support, and awe of back muscles.  These days are full of pitches, laughs, and try hard, there is no judgement and all support.  It's incredibly awesome to climb with Andi and Cristina and I hope that Girl's day happens for a long time.

Drew Peterson poaching in on Girl's day!  Check out Drew and Cristina's blog here.
    One Tuesday, I watched a girl I had recently met during my trip to Bishop, named Daisy, climb Magic Light.  It was apparent this climb was at her max and she had so much try hard, which made it inspiring to watch.  She screamed, she fell, she conquered her way to the top, not once saying "Take."  Ugh.  I miss climbing like that.  I have decided to make my personal climbing motto, "What Would Daisy Do?"  Plus, she had a sick pair of pants that I could never forget.

So with some subconscious encouragement from Daisy, I recently had a mental climbing breakthrough!  I finally got the courage to lead Full Heinous, with a bunch of pushes from Grant of course.  After taking a fall that was long enough to scream twice, I think I am finally back on the horse.  I came to ground saying, "That was exhilarating!" I am confident that I am back on track to finish up my Goal for the year!

Another photo by Ryan Palo.  He is getting pretty good at this btw.
Recap:

-Latest Rage 12b (check),
-Watt's Tots 12b (check),
-Latin Lover 12a (check),
-Doritos 12c,
-Full Heinous 12c,
-Cool Ranch 12a (check),
-Vision 12b,
-Energy Crisis 12b (check),
-Take a Powder 12a,
-Crack Babies 12b,
-Full Magic Light 12a,
-Made in the Shade 12c
I hope to climb into the 13 range this year as well


6 comments:

  1. Thank you for your post!! I am just starting to lead stuff in the gym and it's so weird how one day I'm in the right mind and I just go and lead something but other days fear just paralyzes me and these are just sport routes! I'll have to show this to Alex too because his favorite latest word is "Take take take!!!" lol I think I'll be trying to adapt Daisy''s mindset as well!!

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  2. Thanks Kristi! I am truly grateful that you and Alex were the first ones to take me climbing outdoors! You guys got me hooked for good!

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  3. Oh it was only a matter of time!! I think thats awesome though! It's really hard for me to find any girls to climb with me up here!! Most girls look at me like I'm crazy when I tell them I climb as I try to persuade them that anyone can do it, it just takes making small goals...eh, hasn't convinced any Navy wives so far. lol

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  4. So I took a fairly big fall on lead and landed awkwardly. I was fine but spooked. For the next week I would freeze at cruxs, top rope and take on routes that were well within my ability. One day I returned to the Bivy particularly frustrated with my mental game. My friend Jon came across this post that day and had me read it. I thought, "Well shoot, I'm not even doing what Daisy would do and I AM Daisy." The next days I beat personal records, even flashing Vomit Launch, and there was no taking involved the rest of my time in Smith. It's amazing what we can do when we turn fear into confidence. Funny how these things come full circle. Thanks for the reminder that Daisy wouldn't take. Congrats on Full Heinous and I'm stoked to watch you work, whip and send projects when I return in a few weeks.Thanks again for this.

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  5. I'm glad you found this Daisy, everytime I saw you I wondered if I should tell you about it! Nice work on flashing Vomit Launch, that thing is hard and thanks for the sweet note!

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